Wildfire smoke and ash can increase particulate deposition in attics and on reflective surfaces; homes in high-smoke regions should consider easier-to-clean product options and an inspection/maintenance plan after major smoke events. Keep attic sealing tight to limit infiltration of ash into the living space.
Use products that meet applicable fire/smoke ratings and local code requirements. Avoid stapling or fastening near electrical wiring in a way that would damage wiring insulation; do not let conductive foil contact unprotected electrical components.
Durability depends on material quality and attic conditions. High-quality foil-faced materials installed properly can remain effective for many years; performance will decline if the reflective surface becomes heavily soiled or physically damaged.
Yes. California’s building energy regulations (Title 24) recognize and include radiant barrier provisions in many climate zones; some product and installation criteria (e.g., emittance limits, installation practice) are specified in state guidance and compliance forms. If the installation is part of a code-regulated project, ensure the product meets the stated emittance/label requirements and that installation follows Title 24/CEC guidance.
Dust and dirt on the reflective surface reduce reflectivity and lower effectiveness over time. For that reason, installing the reflective face where it is less likely to collect dust and following manufacturer guidance helps preserve performance.
Not if installed correctly. Maintain attic ventilation and do not block soffit/ridge vents; avoid installing radiant barrier in direct contact with vapor-sensitive surfaces that would trap moisture. Properly installed products per code and manufacturer guidance will not normally create condensation issues.
Best candidates: inland valleys and desert-edge neighborhoods with high solar exposure and heavy AC use; homes with attic ducts or HVAC equipment; houses with moderate attic insulation where additional reduction of heat flow to ceilings provides measurable HVAC relief. Not great candidates: well-insulated homes in consistently mild/coastal microclimates where cooling loads are small.
No — they are complementary. Radiant barriers reduce radiative heat transfer; fiberglass, cellulose, or foam reduce conduction and convective losses. The best results are achieved by combining proper attic insulation (adequate R-value) with a correctly installed radiant barrier.
Yes. We recommend the reflective (shiny) side face the attic air space . Correct orientation helps keep the reflective surface effective over time.
Most effective when installed so the reflective face “sees” an air gap toward the hot roof or toward the attic space (for example: under roof sheathing, stapled to top chord of rafters, or draped across rafters). It is especially valuable when attic ducts or HVAC equipment are located in the attic since lowering attic temperatures reduces duct heat gain.
Typical field and lab studies for hot climates report whole-house cooling energy reductions commonly in the ballpark of single-digit to low-teens percent . Exact results depend on location (coastal vs inland), attic insulation level, duct location, and occupant behavior.
Southern California has long, sunny summers and significant cooling loads in many areas. In inland and valley locations (where daytime highs and attic temperatures are high) radiant barriers often cut cooling loads and peak HVAC runtime by reducing heat transfer from roof to ceiling. Coastal locations with mild summers see smaller gains.
A radiant barrier is a highly reflective material (usually aluminum-faced film or foil) installed in attic assemblies to reflect infrared radiation from a hot roof away from the attic and ceiling. It reduces radiant heat transfer rather than conduction.
Unlike other insulation products (fiberglass, foam, etc.), reflective insulation mainly relies on reflecting radiant heat to achieve insulating effect, so there is no R-value rating. Our reflective insulation products can reflect 95%-97% of radiant heat when the heat source ( Installing a radiant barrier between the sun) and existing R-rated insulation will increase the effectiveness of the R-rated insulation. Because only 3% of the radiant heat now reaches the R-value rated mass insulation, extending the time it has to absorb and transfer heat to your living space before it becomes saturated.
The easiest and most common is to install with foil tape, available in our store, you can also use a staple gun when installing between joists, studs and padding.
Yes, radiant barriers not only reflect radiant heat from the outside, they also keep heat inside to maintain indoor temperatures.
Yes, the radiation barrier is non-toxic and harmless, easy to install, and can be used in pet rooms to ensure that pets’ living environment is warm in winter and cool in summer.
No; radiant barriers work independently of other insulation products.
If your current attic space has no insulation, you will likely find that your utility bills will be reduced more by adding a radiant barrier than if you added a radiant barrier to an attic filled with existing insulation.
This doesn’t mean your attic doesn’t need other insulation products. Integral insulation such as fiberglass insulation, blown cellulose, and rock wool protect you from conductive and convective heat flow and therefore, when combined with a radiant barrier, provide you with the best overall protection, to reduce radiated heat transfer.
Product performance range is -60 to 160 ℉.
Reflective insulation does not rely on thickness to work. In fact, it achieves the thermal insulation effect by reflecting most of the radiant heat through the aluminum foil material on the surface.
